Hanging a wooden gate is one of those jobs that looks straightforward until you try it. A gate that swings sweetly, latches first time and stays true for years is a pleasure. One that sags, sticks or drags is a daily irritation. The good news is that success comes down to three things: sturdy posts, the right hinges and a patient helper. This beginner's guide walks you through the whole process, from gathering tools to that satisfying final tighten.

Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before you touch a post, get everything together. You will need a tape measure, a spirit level (a 1.2 metre one is ideal), a cordless drill with driver bits, a spanner or socket set, a pencil, a saw, and a good supply of wood screws. For the gate itself, you will need hinges — T-hinges or strap hinges are traditional for wooden gates — plus a latch or catch. You will also need fence posts, preferably 100mm x 100mm pressure-treated timber, and a bag or two of concrete mix for setting them. A few plastic packers and a couple of offcuts of wood will help with levelling. And crucially, a helper. Ask a friend or family member to lend a hand; holding a gate steady whilst trying to drive screws is a fool's errand on your own.

• Safety first: wear gloves and eye protection when drilling and mixing concrete.
• Check the gate: lay it flat and measure diagonals to ensure it is square before hanging.
• Allow for movement: leave a 10–15mm gap between the gate and the post on the latch side.

Setting the Posts Firmly

A gate is only as good as its posts. Dig holes at least 600mm deep and 200mm wide — deeper if the ground is soft. Place the post in the hole and check it is upright using your spirit level on two adjacent faces. Pour in concrete mix, following the packet instructions, and tamp it down with a piece of timber to remove air pockets. Check the level again, then brace the post with offcuts nailed to stakes so it cannot move whilst the concrete sets. Leave it for at least 24 hours, preferably 48, before hanging anything. If you are replacing an existing gate, dig out the old post and concrete entirely; do not try to reuse a wobbly post. The latch post should be set so that its face is flush with the gate's closing edge, and the hinge post should be positioned to give your desired gate width plus the small gap.

Choosing and Fitting Hinges

For most garden gates, T-hinges are the simplest and strongest choice. They allow the gate to swing clear of the post and are easy to adjust. Strap hinges suit heavier gates, whilst cranked hinges are useful when the gate needs to sit flush against the post. As a rule, use two hinges for gates up to 900mm wide and three for anything wider or heavier. Position the top hinge roughly 150–200mm down from the top of the gate, and the bottom hinge 200–250mm up from the bottom. Mark the hinge positions on both the gate and the post. Drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood, then screw the hinge to the gate first. The hinge pin should be slightly proud of the gate edge so it can pivot freely.

Hanging the Gate: Levelling and Temporary Fixing

With your helper holding the gate in position, slide packers underneath to lift it clear of the ground — a 15–20mm gap is about right. Check the gate is level across its top edge using your spirit level. If it is not, adjust the packers until it is. Now fix the top hinge to the post with just one screw, then check the level again. Fix the bottom hinge with one screw. Stand back and open the gate slightly. Does it swing without binding? If it catches, adjust the packers or the hinge position. Once you are happy, drive a second screw into each hinge, but do not tighten everything fully yet. This is your chance to fine-tune before committing.

Checking the Swing and Final Tightening

Open and close the gate through its full arc several times. It should swing smoothly and come to rest without help. Check that the latch lines up with the catch — you may need to move the catch slightly. Look along the top and bottom edges: the gate should sit parallel to the posts. If it sags, the bottom hinge may need to move up or the top hinge down. Once the swing is perfect, tighten all the hinge screws fully. Add a third hinge if the gate feels heavy or you notice any flex. Finally, fit the latch and check it engages easily. A well-hung gate should close with a gentle push, not a shove.

A Few Final Tips for a Long-Lasting Gate

Treat any cut ends of timber with wood preserver, especially where you drilled pilot holes. Keep the gate clear of the ground so it does not soak up moisture. In wet weather, wooden gates can swell; if yours sticks, a light sanding of the edges usually solves it. Check hinge screws every few months and tighten any that have worked loose. With sturdy posts, correct hinges and a little patience, your gate will serve you well for many years — and you will have the satisfaction of knowing you hung it yourself.